What a name I said to myself searching the net for a good Choux a la Creme shop. "The bites of the devil", or something like that, drove me to wanting to try them, especially after trying Popelini. All I can say is that the bites were disappointing.
I didn't want to believe the reviews; 2/5 on Trip Advisor and many negative comments on local food blogs didn't discourage me from trying chef Michalac and Chef Alain Ducasse's collaboration. I was expecting a fine piece of art, a culinary experience I wouldn't forget.
Prepare yourself to eat some small bites of choux a la creme on the street, in a caravan located few blocks away from the Eiffel Tower. It's not a fancy pastry shop and not a restaurant, so that has to be clear.
The shop sells both salty and sweet bites. Small choux ballscalled Chouquettes displayed in a glass box, all empty until ordered. You can order any of the sweet balls which will be filled with a choice of five different flavored creams, as well as three choices of savory balls.
- The savory puffs: Pepper, cumin and curry
- The sweet puffs: Almond or cocoa
- The cream filling: Madagascar vanilla, citrus fruit, chocolate, caramel, coffee
Choose an assortment of 9 savory puffs for €7 or 5 sweet puffs for €9.
Those bites are smaller than the normal Choux: A chouquette is a type of viennoiserie consisting of a small portion of choux pastry sprinkled with pearl sugar and sometimes filled with custard or mousse. A chouquette can also be dipped in chocolate or covered in chocolate chips.
I ordered everything to have a complete idea:
- The salty puffs are empty from the inside; balls of 4 to 5 centimeters in size, topped with cheese and sprinkled with the aromatic flavors. They are heated then served. Personally, I didn't understand them. Empty, they feel like you're eating bread. A tiny little portion of cheese on top and the flavor is felt lightly after each bite. After every bite you expect to start feeling something, but that never comes.
- The sweet puffs or choux, to start with, are too thin and have a texture that's a bit hard for such a dessert. What's bizarre and unpleasant is that they have a sweet flavor. Here you soon understand that all fillings added to them will have a sweet flavor.
- The cream inside is where all the deception is. The fillings are too watery, too sweet and feel too artificial. I was expecting a certain finesse that was nonexistent. They lack body and consistency while the envelope adds unneeded sweetness and a bizarre crunch.
I'm not sure why Le Figaro considered it to be one of Paris' best choux, but if I had to choose, I would surely not name it. A good choux can be found at Popelini, Odette, or La Maison du Chou and surely not this kiosk.
- CHOUX D’ENFER: Intersection de la rue Jean rey et du quai Branly 75015 paris
- +33 1 47 83 26 67